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Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers

S. Fryer, KJ. Stone, J. Sveen, T. Dickson, V. España-Romero, D. Giles, J. Baláš, L. Stoner, N. Draper,

. 2017 ; 17 (9) : 1177-1183. [pub] 20170728

Language English Country Great Britain

Document type Comparative Study, Journal Article

Persistent link   https://www.medvik.cz/link/bmc18016464

This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (m⩒O2) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force-time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed. MVC was significantly greater in boulderers compared to lead climbers (mean difference = 9.6, 95% CI 5.2-14 kg). FDP and EDC oxidative capacity indexes were significantly greater (p = .041 and .013, respectively) in lead climbers and boulderers compared to controls (mean difference = -1.166, 95% CI (-3.264 to 0.931 s) and mean difference = -1.120, 95% CI (-3.316 to 1.075 s), respectively) with no differences between climbing disciplines. Climbers had a significantly greater FTI compared to controls (mean difference = 2205, 95% CI= 1114-3296 and mean difference = 1716, 95% CI = 553-2880, respectively) but not between disciplines. There were no significant group differences in ΔFAV or m⩒O2. The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. A greater oxidative capacity index in both climbing groups suggests that irrespective of climbing discipline, trainers, coaches, and practitioners should consider forearm specific aerobic training to aid performance.

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$a This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (m⩒O2) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force-time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed. MVC was significantly greater in boulderers compared to lead climbers (mean difference = 9.6, 95% CI 5.2-14 kg). FDP and EDC oxidative capacity indexes were significantly greater (p = .041 and .013, respectively) in lead climbers and boulderers compared to controls (mean difference = -1.166, 95% CI (-3.264 to 0.931 s) and mean difference = -1.120, 95% CI (-3.316 to 1.075 s), respectively) with no differences between climbing disciplines. Climbers had a significantly greater FTI compared to controls (mean difference = 2205, 95% CI= 1114-3296 and mean difference = 1716, 95% CI = 553-2880, respectively) but not between disciplines. There were no significant group differences in ΔFAV or m⩒O2. The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. A greater oxidative capacity index in both climbing groups suggests that irrespective of climbing discipline, trainers, coaches, and practitioners should consider forearm specific aerobic training to aid performance.
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$a Stone, K J $u a School of Sport and Exercise, Faculty of Applied Sciences , University of Gloucestershire , Gloucester , UK.
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$a Sveen, J $u b School of Life, Sport and Social Sciences , Edinburgh Napier University , Edinburgh , UK.
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$a Dickson, T $u a School of Sport and Exercise, Faculty of Applied Sciences , University of Gloucestershire , Gloucester , UK.
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$a España-Romero, V $u c Department of Physical Education , School of Education , University of Cadiz, Cadiz , Spain.
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$a Giles, D $u d Department of Life Sciences, College of Life and Natural Sciences , University of Derby , Buxton , UK.
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$a Baláš, J $u e Faculty of Physical Education and Sport , Charles University , Prague , Czech Republic.
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$a Stoner, L $u f Department of Sport and Exercise , University of North Carolina , Chapel Hill , NC , USA.
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