This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (m⩒O2) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force-time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed. MVC was significantly greater in boulderers compared to lead climbers (mean difference = 9.6, 95% CI 5.2-14 kg). FDP and EDC oxidative capacity indexes were significantly greater (p = .041 and .013, respectively) in lead climbers and boulderers compared to controls (mean difference = -1.166, 95% CI (-3.264 to 0.931 s) and mean difference = -1.120, 95% CI (-3.316 to 1.075 s), respectively) with no differences between climbing disciplines. Climbers had a significantly greater FTI compared to controls (mean difference = 2205, 95% CI= 1114-3296 and mean difference = 1716, 95% CI = 553-2880, respectively) but not between disciplines. There were no significant group differences in ΔFAV or m⩒O2. The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. A greater oxidative capacity index in both climbing groups suggests that irrespective of climbing discipline, trainers, coaches, and practitioners should consider forearm specific aerobic training to aid performance.

b School of Life Sport and Social Sciences Edinburgh Napier University Edinburgh UK

c Department of Physical Education School of Education University of Cadiz Cadiz Spain

Department of Life Sciences College of Life and Natural Sciences University of Derby Buxton UK

e Faculty of Physical Education and Sport Charles University Prague Czech Republic

f Department of Sport and Exercise University of North Carolina Chapel Hill NC USA

g School of Health Sciences College of Education Health and Human Development University of Canterbury Christchurch New Zealand

School of Sport and Exercise Faculty of Applied Sciences University of Gloucestershire Gloucester UK

References provided by Crossref.org

The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention

Comparing low volume of blood flow restricted to high-intensity resistance training of the finger flexors to maintain climbing-specific strength and endurance: a crossover study

The Estimation of Critical Angle in Climbing as a Measure of Maximal Metabolic Steady State