Ceramides are a family of lipids constituted by a sphingoid base and a fatty acid. In the skin, they are mainly present in the stratum corneum where, with cholesterol and free fatty acids, they constitute the inter-corneocyte lipids. With the other lipid groups, they play a key role in the formation of dense lamellar structures between adjacent corneocytes, collectively ensuring the vital efficient barrier to water evaporation and protection from foreign agents´ penetration. Changes in ceramide level and relative composition, with potential impairment of lipid arrangement, have been evidenced in different skin conditions and skin diseases. Therefore, use of suitably formulated ceramides has been proposed for topical treatment to help re-structure damaged lipid arrangement and repair impaired skin barrier function. Nonetheless, the formulation of ceramides in products necessitates specific processes such as heating to high temperature before their introduction in the final formula. In this review on the structure, the role and the potential of ceramides for skincare, we point out the necessity of rigorous process when formulating ceramides into the final product. We demonstrate the counterproductive effects of undissolved ceramides on skin barrier repair capacity of the formulas, when assessed in different in vitro models of disrupted skin barrier.

Les céramides sont une famille de lipides constituée d'une base sphingoïde et d'un acide gras. Dans la peau, ils sont principalement présents dans la couche cornée où, avec le cholestérol et les acides gras libres, ils constituent les lipides inter‐cornéocytes. Avec les autres groupes de lipides, ils jouent un rôle clé dans la formation de structures lamellaires denses entre les cornéocytes adjacents, assurant collectivement la barrière efficace vitale contre l'évaporation de l'eau et la protection contre la pénétration des agents étrangers. Des modifications du taux de céramides et de la composition relative, avec une altération potentielle de l'arrangement lipidique, ont été observées dans différentes affections cutanées et maladies cutanées. Par conséquent, l'utilisation de céramides formulés de manière appropriée a été proposée pour un traitement topique afin d'aider à restructurer la disposition des lipides endommagés et à réparer la fonction de barrière cutanée altérée. Néanmoins, la formulation des céramides dans les produits nécessite des processus spécifiques tels que le chauffage à température élevée avant leur introduction dans la formule finale. Dans cette revue sur la structure, le rôle et le potentiel des céramides pour les soins de la peau, nous soulignons la nécessité d'un processus rigoureux lors de la formulation des céramides dans le produit final. Nous démontrons les effets contre‐productifs des céramides non dissous sur la capacité de réparation de la barrière cutanée des formules, lorsqu'ils sont évalués dans différents modèles in vitro de barrière cutanée perturbée.

Department of Organic Technology Faculty of Chemical Technology University of Chemistry and Technology Prague Prague Czech Republic

Evonik Operations GmbH Essen Germany

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