INTRODUCTION: Active recovery (AR) is used during exercise training; however, it is unclear whether the AR should involve the whole body, only the upper extremities, or only the lower extremities when aiming to maintain localized upper body performance. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the impact of different AR strategies on repeated intermittent finger flexor performance leading to exhaustion. METHODS: A crossover trial involving a familiarization session and three laboratory visits, each including three exhaustive intermittent isometric tests at 60% of finger flexor maximal voluntary contraction separated by 22 min of randomly assigned AR: walking, intermittent hanging, and climbing. RESULTS: The impulse (Nꞏs) significantly decreased from the first to third trials after walking (-18.4%, P = 0.002, d = 0.78), climbing (-29.5%, P < 0.001, d = 1.48), and hanging (-27.2%, P < 0.001, d = 1.22). In the third trial, the impulse from the intermittent test was significantly higher after walking (21,253 ± 5,650 Nꞏs) than after hanging (18,618 ± 5,174 Nꞏs, P = 0.013, d = 0.49) and after climbing (18,508 ± 4,435 Nꞏs, P = 0.009, d = 0.54). CONCLUSIONS: The results show that easy climbing or intermittent isolated forearm contractions should not be used as AR strategies to maintain subsequent performance in comparison to walking, indicating that using the same muscle group for AR should be avoided between exhaustive isometric contractions.

• Klíčová slova
• intermittent exercise, near-infrared spectroscopy, oxygen saturation, rock climbing, sport climbing,
• Publikační typ
• časopisecké články MeSH

PURPOSE: The critical force (CF) concept, differentiating steady and non-steady state conditions, extends the critical power paradigm for sport climbing. This study aimed to validate CF for finger flexors derived from the 4 min all-out test as a boundary for the highest sustainable work intensity in sport climbers. METHODS: Twelve participants underwent multiple laboratory visits. Initially, they performed the 4 min intermittent contraction all-out test for CF determination. Subsequent verification visits involved finger-flexor contractions at various intensities, including CF, CF -2 kg, CF -4 kg, and CF -6 kg, lasting for 720 s or until failure, while monitoring muscle-oxygen dynamics of forearm muscles. RESULTS: CF, determined from the mean force of last three contractions, was measured at 20.1 ± 5.7 kg, while the end-force at 16.8 ± 5.2 kg. In the verification trials, the mean time to failure at CF was 440 ± 140 s, with only one participant completing the 720 s task. When the load was continuously lowered (-2 kg, -4 kg, and -6 kg), a greater number of participants (38%, 69%, and 92%, respectively) successfully completed the 720 s task. Changes of muscle-oxygen dynamics showed a high variability and could not clearly distinguish between exhaustive and non-exhaustive trials. CONCLUSIONS: CF, based on the mean force of the last three contractions, failed to reliably predict the highest sustainable work rate. In contrast, determining CF as the end-force of the last three contractions exhibited a stronger link to sustainable work. Caution is advised in interpreting forearm muscle-oxygen dynamics, lacking sensitivity for nuanced metabolic responses during climbing-related tasks.

• Klíčová slova
• Critical power, Intermittent exercise, Isometric contraction, Muscle oxygen, NIRS, Threshold,
• MeSH
• dospělí MeSH
• horolezectví * fyziologie   MeSH
• kosterní svaly * fyziologie   MeSH
• lidé MeSH
• mladý dospělý MeSH
• prsty ruky * fyziologie   MeSH
• spotřeba kyslíku fyziologie   MeSH
• svalová kontrakce fyziologie   MeSH
• Check Tag
• dospělí MeSH
• lidé MeSH
• mladý dospělý MeSH
• mužské pohlaví MeSH
• ženské pohlaví MeSH
• Publikační typ
• časopisecké články MeSH
• validační studie MeSH

BACKGROUND: Climbing is an intricate sport composed of various disciplines, holds, styles, distances between holds, and levels of difficulty. In highly skilled climbers the potential for further strength-specific adaptations to increase performance may be marginal in elite climbers. With an eye on the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics, more climbers are trying to maximize performance and improve training strategies. The relationships between muscular strength and climbing performance, as well as the role of strength in injury prevention, remain to be fully elucidated. This narrative review seeks to discuss the current literature regarding the effect of resistance training in improving maximal strength, muscle hypertrophy, muscular power, and local muscular endurance on climbing performance, and as a strategy to prevent injuries. MAIN BODY: Since sport climbing requires exerting forces against gravity to maintain grip and move the body along the route, it is generally accepted that a climber`s absolute and relative muscular strength are important for climbing performance. Performance characteristics of forearm flexor muscles (hang-time on ledge, force output, rate of force development, and oxidative capacity) discriminate between climbing performance level, climbing styles, and between climbers and non-climbers. Strength of the hand and wrist flexors, shoulders and upper limbs has gained much attention in the scientific literature, and it has been suggested that both general and specific strength training should be part of a climber`s training program. Furthermore, the ability to generate sub-maximal force in different work-rest ratios has proved useful, in examining finger flexor endurance capacity while trying to mimic real-world climbing demands. Importantly, fingers and shoulders are the most frequent injury locations in climbing. Due to the high mechanical stress and load on the finger flexors, fingerboard and campus board training should be limited in lower-graded climbers. Coaches should address, acknowledge, and screen for amenorrhea and disordered eating in climbers. CONCLUSION: Structured low-volume high-resistance training, twice per week hanging from small ledges or a fingerboard, is a feasible approach for climbers. The current injury prevention training aims to increase the level of performance through building tolerance to performance-relevant load exposure and promoting this approach in the climbing field.

• Klíčová slova
• Bouldering performance, Lead climbing, Local muscular endurance, Maximal strength, Muscle hypertrophy, Muscular power, Prevent injuries,
• Publikační typ
• časopisecké články MeSH
• přehledy MeSH

Purpose: Sport climbing is a technical, self-paced sport, and the workload is highly variable and mainly localized to the forearm flexors. It has not proved effective to control intensity using measures typical of other sports, such as gas exchange thresholds, heart rate, or blood lactate. Therefore, the purposes of the study were to (1) determine the possibility of applying the mathematical model of critical power to the estimation of a critical angle (CA) as a measure of maximal metabolic steady state in climbing and (2) to compare this intensity with the muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) determined during an exhaustive climbing task. Materials and Methods: Twenty-seven sport climbers undertook three to five exhaustive ascents on a motorized treadwall at differing angles to estimate CA, and one exhaustive climbing test with a progressive increase in angle to determine MOB, assessed using near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS). Results: Model fit for estimated CA was very high (R 2 = 0.99; SEE = 1.1°). The mean peak angle during incremental test was -17 ± 5°, and CA from exhaustive trials was found at -2.5 ± 3.8°. Nine climbers performing the ascent 2° under CA were able to sustain the task for 20 min with perceived exertion at 12.1 ± 1.9 (RPE). However, climbing 2° above CA led to task failure after 15.9 ± 3.0 min with RPE = 16.4 ± 1.9. When MOB was plotted against estimated CA, good agreement was stated (ICC = 0.80, SEM = 1.5°). Conclusion: Climbers, coaches, and researchers may use a predefined route with three to five different wall angles to estimate CA as an analog of critical power to determine a maximal metabolic steady state in climbing. Moreover, a climbing test with progressive increases in wall angle using MOB also appears to provide a valid estimate of CA.

• Klíčová slova
• critical power, finger flexors, muscle oxygenation, near infrared spectroscopy, oxygen kinetics, sport climbing,
• Publikační typ
• časopisecké články MeSH